just had water pump and cambelts etc all done but got some fault codes which were cleared but have come back

19558 - no siignal

17075 - radiator fan activation short

16785 - exhaust gas recirculation

i have changed the cts and cleaned the egr out the other day.

any help would be helpfull as just bought car but i do have 3 months rac warrenty so wondering if i can clame on that.....

 19558 is no signal to the manifold flap. When you cleaned out the EGR did you disturb the wiring to the mani flap? Wiring ok to the motor? Because no connection is being made.

16785 - Did you disconnect the egr wiring or is the valve stuck?

 just checked  fuse and is blown so replaced will see what happens.

i unpluged egr vavle when i cleaned it out and flap moved ok was not siezed...

 drove round for 30 mins all ok but started it up  again at shop and light came on so have disconected  battery to reset light and put new fuse in

 The battery trick might do it, if not they will have to be cleared on vagcom.

 ok ta just looking on ebay for vag com so i dont have to keep going to m8s garage..

 You can buy the cable on ebay, i think registration for all the software is around £45 im not sure on that.

 any idea on wy it pops the fuse is it the egr valve that sticks and pops it or thottle body flap ?

if its egr may take of again and oil it abit ?

if its popping fuses there is probably a short on the wiring somewhere

 Yep take all wiring off and make sure there are no bad contacts.

am i right in saying that the flap should be shut when the engine is of ?

 yep it should be closed when engine off.

 imf update...

phoned eurocar parts today and they told me they hadn't got any in stock but can special order me 1  so going to order tomo.

had light taken out again today as came on after 3 days of driving vagcom on order from ebay so be able to do it myself.

even with light reset imf valve is wide open when engine is of and i can move it open and shut ..think by the sounds of it it is completely knackerd as have been told by a few people now the valve should be shut when engine of.so suspect that the valve does not work what so ever.

also glow plug fault came up so wondering how easy  to do as may put new ones in at the same time.

hopefully once dun all will be good .........

 And you are sure that all wiring and fuses to it are ok, because that would kill it off too...im not sure if it would kill it open or closed.... suppose whenever the power supply was disconnected.

 Hi there. This is my 1st time time on this forum, not quite sure how to post a thread. But I hope this can msg can be circulated. I have an audi a3 1.6 SE petrol 55 plate. The fan comes on when i start the car and stays on. The engine management light shows up.The temperature gage doesnt move from zero. The fan only turns off after I turn off the ignition and turn it back on immediately BUT only when the car has been driven for a minimum of 45mins. With the fan turning off, the temperature gage also starts working again and the engine management light turns off. The fan is basically working the oppostitely by coming on when the engine is cool and turning off when the engine has warmed up. may i also note that the car does NOT overheat. Can someone please help as i have got the thermostat looked at,the water pump checked and the air pressure switch that sits above the condenser also checked out but the problem is still exists.   

There is a temperature switch for the fans on the radiator mate, id change that first. Its prob telling the fans that its hot and thus running them.

Sounds like it could be that or a dodgy engine temp sensor.

If the fans are on, it shouldnt prevent the engine from warming up. The thermostat should be closed, thus the fan would be cooling a cold radiator as the radiator will be isolated from the engine as the thermostats closed it off.

 I think they call it a dual thermo switch

Part number should be: 1J0 959 481 A

Yeh cheers mate. thanx 4 the swift response. will follow up on ur advice regarding dual thermo switch. I dont have any warranty on the car so im going to have to fork out me pocket but judging from ur suggetions i would assume it wont be 2 costly as its a matter of looking at sensors or switches (fans wont need changing). oh with regards to the above diagram is number 10 the dual thermo switch? thanx again 4 ur assistance

thanx for clarifying that mate. i've booked the car in the garage 4 2moro morning so i will let u know of any developments (hopefully positive developments). thanks 

hi guys. i finally managed to resolve the problem with fan by the painstaking process of elimination. over the last few weeks, ive had the water pump checked, thermostat changed, air con pressure switch changed and both temperature sensors checked out. as it happened after a 3rd opinion, i was told to to have both temp sensors replaced by brand new ones despite having been told that my existing temp sensors were fine. only after this was the problem eventually solved. morale of the story: always get a 2nd and 3rd opinion. (cost 2 replace both temperature sensors-parts and labour: £80.