I have a problem with the flap valve on my A3 When I took it apart it was full of engine oil? It also had a couple of broken teeth.

http://a.imageshack.us/img840/2893/dscf4696.jpg

I am concerned if I replace it with a new one it will also fail due to oil contamination.

Anybody got any ideas as to how the oil got in.

I have been running the car with the vacuum hose disconnected from the EGR for about a year so as not to foul up the inside of the EGR again.

Also the hot starting is c**p I have replaced the CTS but it has not helped.

Thanks in advance

Phil.

There's a new revised part available for the EGR flap, Part Number 038128063M

The oil gets carried through the valve as vapour, and will find a way into the innards of the valve somehow I presume as the seal on the actuator shaft will probably have failed. A new valve assembly should be okay. I also have a failed flap assembly, and the engine management light is on all the time. My hot starting is also crap. Funds allow me to get it repaired now, so I'm heading down the new part route soon. I expect all my troubles to go when it's replaced.

To prevent the oily vapour from clogging up the intake you need an oil catch can fitting, rather than disabling the egr. The oily vapour will still be there, but the soot introduced by the egr gets added to it to make the sticky glue. Best remove the oil than the egr gasses to prevent clogging in future.

 i had broken teeth on my old one, got the replacement and all ok! didnt have trouble starting etc though. if you take the part off, i broke the cogs out of mine and flap iirc. i ran it like that for 2 months(ish) as i didnt have the spare cash to buy it at the time lol mine used to click when i turned it off the teeth were that bad!! or you can just unplug it when you made sure its wide open. but you normally get engine management light, but i assure you it goes off when you plug it back in

Spurred on by this thread I just made some enquiries.

Seat dealer (my mate, btw) can't do anything less than about £260 delivered. Prices are held by Seat UK and they're non negotiable on that particular part. All VAG dealer groups are the same btw. My mate paid VW £380 plus vat for having one fitted to his wifes car.

There's a seller on Ebay who has stock. Link. Cost total is £206. inc. vat & delivery. He specialises in bankrupt stock so how new is the part....

Euro car parts is unavailable at the moment, but I couldn't find one listed last time I looked. They're a bunch of crooks anyway so I wouldn't use them.

Murrays Direct have them in stock for £162.40 plus £6.70 guaranteed delivery next day, plus vat. Link. Cost total is £198.70. They don't list stock on the website so I emailed them last night and just got a reply now. Gonna phone and order with them at 10.00 opening time.

 i got mine from eurocarparts, cost £175 delivered at the time(not sure if the price has changed or not)

Euro Car Parts have it at £211.44. Link.

Well, the part arrived from Murrays, with the M suffix so the latest part available. Delivered for just short of £200.

Just been out and swapped it over. Half an hours (dirty) work, and a quick VCDS reset to clear the fault code, and all is now back to normal again. The engine management light is off, and the wife is off out to test drive it later.

 I still have not replaced the flap valve yet but am about to do so. Is the valves only purpose to stop the engine shuddering when it is switched off or does it also perform other functions? I'm still concerned with the fact mine was full of engine oil when I took it apart, I mean actually full up!! not just a dribble of oil.

I have also bought all the parts to do a cam belt change. Has any one got any hints or tips to smooth the replacement process.

Regards

Phil.

No, the valves primary function is to provide the correct conditions for the EGR to work. When the ECU tells the EGR to operate, the vacuum solenoid energises the EGR valve. At the same time the ECU tells the flap valve to partly close, so that the inlet draught pulls the exhaust gas through the EGR. If the flap stayed open then there wouldn't be enough draw to pull exhaust gas through at the required volume. Secondary function is to close completely to stall the engine at shut down.

Mine was full of oil as well. It happens, don't worry about it.

 Thanks for the reply Rustynuts.

I have changed the timing belt today along with the water pump, boy what a long job. I have not yet tried to start it as I need to get some antifreeze tomorrow. One thing that concerns me is how tight the belt seems after tensioning it. I aligned  the pointer with the cut out as per the manual but it seems very tight to me. Anybody else had similar concerns after changing the timing belt? Is it tight when new?

Also got a new flap valve today, bought it from murrays as suggested on this forum.

 Started the car today fired right on the button. Connected Vagcom to reset DTC but one of them keeps comming back.

Address 01: Engine       Labels: 03G-906-016-BKD.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 03G 906 016 FF    HW: 028 101 190 5
  Component and/or Version: R4 2,0L EDC 0000SG  6337
           Software Coding: 0000072
            Work Shop Code: WSC 06314 000 00000
                      VCID: 6CDD5B3B36E0
2 Faults Found:

19557 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157): Open or Short to Ground
            P3101 - 000 -  -
             Freeze Frame:
                    RPM: 798 /min
                    Torque: 28.0 Nm
                    Speed: 0.0 km/h
                    Load: 0.0 %
                    Voltage: 14.21 V
                    Bin. Bits: 11000100
                    Torque: 160.0 Nm
                    Torque: 0.0 Nm

17075 - Fan 1 Control Circuit: Short to GND
            P0691 - 000 -  -
             Freeze Frame:
                    RPM: 798 /min
                    Torque: 26.0 Nm
                    Speed: 0.0 km/h
                    Load: 0.0 %
                    Voltage: 14.21 V
                    Bin. Bits: 11000100
                    Temperature: 45.9°C
                    Duty Cycle: 9.6 %

Any ideas as to what the issue is? I only fitted the new flap valve yesterday.

I have also got a warning light on the dash now that looks like a steering wheel that appeared after I reconnected the battery. Will that one go after driving it around for a while?

Thanks chaps.

philcbr:

 Started the car today fired right on the button. Connected Vagcom to reset DTC but one of them keeps comming back.

Address 01: Engine       Labels: 03G-906-016-BKD.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 03G 906 016 FF    HW: 028 101 190 5
  Component and/or Version: R4 2,0L EDC 0000SG  6337
           Software Coding: 0000072
            Work Shop Code: WSC 06314 000 00000
                      VCID: 6CDD5B3B36E0
2 Faults Found:

19557 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157): Open or Short to Ground
            P3101 - 000 -  -
             Freeze Frame:
                    RPM: 798 /min
                    Torque: 28.0 Nm
                    Speed: 0.0 km/h
                    Load: 0.0 %
                    Voltage: 14.21 V
                    Bin. Bits: 11000100
                    Torque: 160.0 Nm
                    Torque: 0.0 Nm

17075 - Fan 1 Control Circuit: Short to GND
            P0691 - 000 -  -
             Freeze Frame:
                    RPM: 798 /min
                    Torque: 26.0 Nm
                    Speed: 0.0 km/h
                    Load: 0.0 %
                    Voltage: 14.21 V
                    Bin. Bits: 11000100
                    Temperature: 45.9°C
                    Duty Cycle: 9.6 %

Any ideas as to what the issue is? I only fitted the new flap valve yesterday.

I have also got a warning light on the dash now that looks like a steering wheel that appeared after I reconnected the battery. Will that one go after driving it around for a while?

Thanks chaps.

You've listed two error codes but haven't said which one is coming back. If it's the flap valve then is the connector plug inserted correctly? Also, Just to be certain, you've erased the codes rather than just read them I presume.

 You are right I have listed two dtc's the one about the flap valve is the one I mean. The code for the fan control returns sometimes? I have cleared them not just read them.

When I connected the new flap valve before I fitted it the valve did not move when the ignition was turned on. Could I have issues with the ECU now?

More likely the issue is wiring/fuse related. Check the relevant fuse first, as sometimes the fuse blows when the regulator valve motor goes faulty. The same fuse controls the aircon fans I believe. Fuse number 8 in the engine compartment fuse box, I seem to recall, although it might be number 5.

 Rustynuts you were spot on fuse 8 was indeed blown. All DTC now clear, a huge thank you.

Will the warning light that looks like a steering wheel go out after driving the car around a bit?

cheers

Phil.

Sorry mate, I have no idea on your remaining fault.

Glad the other issue is sorted though.

 All warning lights now extinguished.

 Now I have driven the car I have noticed it seems to be making a sound like a distant police siren from idle to about 2000ish RPM. The wife now tells me it's been like that for a while.

Any ideas chaps? does the turbo make such noises when it's on it's way out?

Regards

Mine's been making that noise for 50k miles mate. As long as it doesn't get worse then don't worry about it. I'm on 120k miles now and it was doing it at 70k when I bought it.

My old MkIV did that, I described it like and owl, but think it's the same - it was a turbo hose that had worked itself loose - I didn't fix it myself so couldn't say which one I'm afraid.

Adding to what Rustynuts said about a catch can - I fitted one 8k miles ago and have so far had about 500-750ml of watery gooey oily crap from it - all of which would've ended up in my engine/egr!